Saturday, May 03, 2008

Derby Day

I always associate the Kentucky Derby with Spring, 1959, when I left Berkeley to hitchhike to Louisville and see the derby, my first adventure on the road, as it were, which I documented in a journal which I still possess. I was 19 years old. I had transfered from Cal Tech to Berkeley in the middle of my sophomore year but promptly dropped out of school, finding the Berkeley street life far more exciting than classrooms. This was a major turning point in my life, the beginning of a coming of age transformation, from nerd to writer. Here are sample journal entries from that trip:

April 22, 1959 … 4 rides today from Oakland to Bakersfield. … [about 3rd ride] Rode most of day with these guys. Running away from folks. No money. Plan robbery in Bakersfield tonite so Dunc & I cut out. Real nice bunch of fellas. Just on wrong side of tracks.

[later that night] Met interesting woman tonight. Old in physical appearance but strong as an ox, has been in 48 states 4 times. Tattooed from head to toe. Had on man’s pants, shoes, shirt. Shirt buttoned in only one place, high. Breasts hanging loosely, visibly, with no bra. Has two kids in Vermont. Friendly as hell, the type of woman one does not believe exists. Makes freighters all over. Used terms like “shack out,” “this side of midnite.” “Hell” most popular word in vocabulary.

April 23, 1959 … Rode from Mojave half way to Barstow with desert-rat wino. Passed bottle; very unsafe. Glad to have left him. Duncan bummed meals for 3 of us.

[that night] Between 1st and 2nd Ave. on Fremont [Las Vegas] is a “main drag.” The lights are so bright that the sidewalk is as bright as at mid-day. The city never sleeps. It jingles alive – stretched endlessly over the desert.

Monday, Ap 27, 1959 … [after Duncan left me on my own] I’m headed for Mississippi. Since Salt Lake been with Al, 29 from Miss. Going there for fishing and pussy – talked me into making it.

[later, same day] I’m a little south of Carthage, Mo. It is still light – overcast, thundering, raining intermittently.
Today, about 3pm, Al told me he was going downtown. We were both damn sleepy, so I stretched on a blanket in the park – where I am now. He was to meet me in 2 hrs. He was going to try to con $10 from the Amer. Leg.
I don’t know how long it has been since I went to sleep, but Al is not here. I don’t know what to think. His jacket is here, but I can’t find the $ he is supposed to have in it. I “thought” he took his crap and perhaps cut out. He has nothing of mine, which makes me believe he’s slowed down. I’ll wait all nite if need be – I hope he’s not in trouble …
For the first time this trip I am alone with no one to talk to. I suddenly realize the intensity of loneliness. And in a goddamn thunderstorm no less!

Tues Ap 28 ’59 … 9:00 AM … No sign of Al. I have choice of going – to Miss. Or Ken.; or waiting. I’ll at least wait a few more hours.

Wed Ap 29 ’59 … I left Al – never showed. Got ride today with another queer. This one teaches j.v. deliqs.

[later] Another drunk, another queer tonite.

Although I made it to Louisville in time for Derby Day, I had little money and no more inclination to see the race. The journal continues:

Thur Ap 30 ’59 … Man asked if I wanted ride as I walked down street of Louisville. Bought me 3 hamburgers and a coke. Very friendly.

[later, outside Danville, starting home] Ken. friendliest state I’ve been in. Rained hard tonite – small boy & his older, cute, blonde sister let me sleep in their parents’ barn. I slept up in the hay loft above the hog – protected from the rain.

Fri May 1 ’59 … Sicker than dog today, can’t keep anything down. Finally picked shade and slept. Slept most of day. Tried hitching at 5pm. Long wait for short ride. Hit sack at sunset with thumping headache.

Sun May 3 ’59 … Rode to Memphis with Mississippi newly-weds.
[later] Anxious to get home and feel clean again. Would like in future to motorcycle around states. Hitching fine if time has no meaning. This is its appealing factor.


I was young, sheltered, naive. I learned a hell of a lot quickly on the road.

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